The next morning was nice, we woke up bright and early after sleeping for maybe two hours..maybe less. The kids were exhausted so I snuck out to take another cold shower and get dressed. I was happy to see the morning light, to look out the window onto the landscape I spent so much time exploring. It was surreal. I had looked forward to sitting under the itilum tree fro many years, it represented a time in my life where things were stable, simple..nice. My dad even had someone construct this table into the existing rock formation because we sat up there everyday and although we had these leather chairs that balanced nicely on there, there was never anywhere to put a dink down without it falling and breaking. From this very spot, we learnt many childhood lessons, we (my siblings and I) got know our dad, we met many people, we watched some great celebrations..we bonded as a family.
This morning, the place was already filled with local visitors waiting to talk to us ( as my father would have) but all I wanted was solace. I wanted to walk around, take it in without being watched or followed. This wasn't really realistic because they were so compelled to talk to us because we had been gone for so long.
After some breakfast, we all got in the cars and drove out. I knew we were going to visit a few people around town but I had no idea what was really about to happen! We started by visiting my uncles home where his mother lives and then many other homes of my extended family ( if you hadn't noticed..I have an enormous family..). The location is referred to as the Garba compound..its basically a development with constellations of huts and some masonry buildings which the family resides in. The roads were largely unpaved and I remember thinking that this might be one of only places in daily life that a hummer is useful..certainly not on route 17 in New Jersey! We were totally off- roading at this point.
I was surprised by some of the sentiment that remained amongst the people, when we visited Manta ( another wife of my grandfather ( it was customary to have more than one..), she was ecstatic to see us, she greeted everyone enthusiastically and then came the chicken...yep..she gave us a live chicken from her backyard. This would be only the first ( chicken..) we would collect for the day.
After visiting the "mamas", we took a drive about 15 minutes up into a higher location then had to get out of the car and climb up a rock to visit the Ponzhi Taroh...this was unplanned..but really worth while because when we got there the view was amazing...in more than one way. So there we were without the Bjorn, sleeping 9 month old in sandals, dress shoes and heels climbing up this rock formation in about 100 degree weather. We hiked up and finally arrived at the location of the ancestors..
We all cautiously approached the gathering area and there he was draped in an animal skin and twig crown. He greeted us and we we returned the greetings but since he didn't speak English it was a bit challenging to make small talk beyond that. Arielle wasn't convinced..as you can see. She was very skeptical and whispered to me "mommy..is he a witch?"
We took some photographs and roamed around for a bit then he spoke..whatever he said prompted one of the boys there to chase down a chicken (the chicken gave him a run for his money too)..this must happen pretty often. Once he caught the poor chicken, he presented it to my mother who actually received it with her bare hands! Nice!
They are modest settlers but some of the happiest people I've met, they are extremely resourceful and have the first principles of passive, off the grid living down better than many. The grow, live, sow and pray to the asme land. This part of the trip for me was very meaningful, it was something we did with my father, he would warn us as kids..when you get up there don't point, don't shake his hand and don't touch the rock with the skull. It was just as intriguing to me twenty-something years later.
We drove from here about two hours back to Jos, had lunch and waited..waited and waited for a plane that was to take off at 4pm but didn't leave Jos until 11:30am!
