Showing posts with label Nigeria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nigeria. Show all posts

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Nigeria Trip // Day 5-Langtang

Jos was relatively hot and dry (as opposed to oppressively humid like Lagos had been a few days earlier), it was a nice sunny day in the middle of the week and these were the scenes from our drive. We left around noon from our house in a convoy of three led by my uncles arm guarded Hummer, after a quick fill-up at his gas station we hit the road. The ride was absolutely beautiful, just as I remember, the landscape is almost surreal at times, complex rock formations and vegetation littered by small huts and 1 story buildings mainly constructed form the locally available materials. 

Langtang is located about 180 kilometers south-east of Jos, which is the capital of Plateau State and is the home of the Taroh people (which I am as well..). It's primarily a farming village populated by mainly christian people within a fairly close knit community. I feel like I may be related to more than half the village..ha..ha. In Langtang,  it always felt like time stood still, there was land and we spent our days exploring it, climbing things, walking around, picking things off trees. It was probably the best times I had as a child. It was truly leisurely, something I have never been to do again since then. I remember my dad retreating to Langtang when he could and longing to be there under the itilum tree while we were anywhere else. Maybe its the air, but it really ( at least for me) feels like the only place to relax. 


My memories of the place are fond, our home shares demising wall with our cousins so we always had a great time there on the holidays when our families would return "home" for several weeks. It really always felt like home somehow, everyone always seemed to reside in a really mellow state when we were there, my father was for once able to forget about work (which at the time could have been something fairly critical). We would go hiking, we'd go to our farm (Taka-Lafia), we'd go to visit Wase rock, we'd sit outside for hours on end eating itulum from the very tree providing us shade from the hot sun. At night we'd have roasted meat (usually from an animal that had been walking around earlier that day) and we'd play games, play squash..There was absolutely nothing on the agenda just leisure and it was fantastic.




As we drove through town after town, it seemed like we drove straight on the road for about 1.5 hours then turned left and about 30 minutes later I started to recognize the surroundings. I knew e were close to my home. At the moment we drove by St. Augustines church ( a Catholic church my father constructed here so we could have somewhere to celebrate mass on Sundays) I knew we were minutes from this place which held so much joy and tension for me all at once.

We made the left and approached the gate, as it opened images of my childhood walking up and down this very driveway over and over came rushing back..letting out fireworks at New Years with my cousins right at this very spot. We drove in and a weight was lifted, I finally made it back. Its been ten years and even so my previous visit ( 10 years ago) had really been quite tough on me so this held a lot for me. We made it home. We were greeted by various members of the extended family, drinks food..a lot of people going "wuwe..wuwe" (Taroh version of "oh shoot"..."kangkang.roh?" (Taroh version of hello, how are you?) and holding their hands over their mouths in disbelief. This was all understandable for many reasons. We (the kids) have grown up quite a bit since they last saw us, we have also multiplied (5 new kids) and we came escorted by several Americans (our husbands). As the evening festivities continued, this all became controversial. But for now..everyone in..fast..looks like a storm is brewing! to be continued..

Monday, April 15, 2013

Nigeria Trip // Day 4-Jos

Jos, the capital of Plateau State is named after the Jos Plateau which is located near the center of the country and is home to the ancient Nok culture. It is known for its wonderfully temperate climate, amazing landscape, great diversity and was once one of the most important tourist destinations in the country. Over the last decade or so, there has been a great decline in tourism, a mass exodus of its inhabitants and dwindling numbers in investments etc. due religious clashes that have caused tension and instilled fears in the people who remain.The sights were hard to take in, the roads were dusty and you could see the strife , you could read the hardship in the eyes of the people, still smiling but weary, still hopeful but tired. The streets were littered with small table setups selling various things, mostly potatoes and yams, there were also mobile (on foot..that is) vendors selling more vegetable but nothing like the selections in the streets of Lagos.  Things were obviously tough but even so, it is my home and I had to be there to really see this for myself. 
On the first night, we spent time trying to take in the house, settle in and feel comfortable in a place who's appearance had dramatically changed since I was last there. I felt an eerie calm but also remained quite uneasy with the space, so reminiscent of my childhood, my mind flashed between great memories and the present, emptiness, almost impersonal air of the time. It was hard to swallow, especially being there with my husband and kids (my mum and younger sister as well). We stayed up quite late and talked about the past and looked through old photos, eventually retiring into at daybreak. 
The next morning, we woke up to a nice day, we spent the morning exploring the compound, walking around reminiscing about the places I used to play and sit and spend time as a child, it was nice to reconcile my thoughts and feeling towards this house, it amazing how much the "place" which seemed so ordinary as a child is actually uniquely intertwined in the person I have become. My cousin and his two daughters drove in from Abuja that afternoon, as did my aunt and other cousin as we awaited the rest of the family to arrive. The kids immediately became best friends and started playing like we had when we were their size many years ago, it was like we had come full circle yet not much had changed but much had been lost.

 We ventured out into town to get lunch which turned out to be quite a challenge, we initially thought we'd go to Plateau hotel but when we got there and walked in it was deserted and dark! very disappointing as it used to be a pretty happening spot back then. We also tried to go to Hill Station hotel but there wasn't really anything going on there, we eventually got to a place called Avis which was supposed to be fairly decent serving traditional Nigerian food but as we all got out of the cars to walk in we were stopped by a guard who wanted us to leave all our personal belongings in a lock box before entering, certainly that did not sit well with any of us. We bypassed him eventually him and got in to eat. We also went shopping in town for some drinks and snacks for later.
That evening was a wonderful mix of celebration, meetings of family members new and old, conversation, laughter and it was like old times..almost. The anxiety faded and I was able to truly appreciate my home once again. We broke bread with a large group of extended family members who stopped in excitedly to visit us and had lots of suya and homemade massa. It was a really good night.

The next morning, we awoke bright and early, had breakfast and prepared to leave for Langtang.


Monday, June 11, 2012

#22: Life

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/05/world/africa/engine-trouble-reported-in-nigerian-crash.html

Although this incident seems far from home to some, it is at home for me. I live in New York and have created a life here over many years but I am from Nigeria and often wonder what life would have been like if I hadn't stayed in the US and instead returned home after college. Our country isn't perfect but we have struggled and persevered through many hard times, we are resilient people with good hearts and strong will. I appreciate the safety we have here in the US but we cannot forget how fleeting life really is; while my heart goes out to those who have perished in this disaster remember this could have happened anywhere and been anyone, but today we are spared and get to continue our lives. RIP